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river cafe cook book
Meals in Italy usually end with a strong espresso. Cakes and pastries are more offen eaten at breakfast than as a dessert and ice creams in the street.
Not all the desserts in this chapter are italian but they are consistent with the food we cook at the River Cafe strong in flavour and uncomplicated. Our lemon tart has more lemon than eggs the chocolate cakes have no flour and depend on the best and most bitter chocolate; ripe peaches are simply grilled and then marinated in Amaretto. Our ice creams are intense with a larger than usual proportion of egg yolks to milk and cream but this richness is offset by making them less sweet.
Some of our recipes such as Zabaglione ice cream have italian origins but have been adapted to British ingredients. This ice cream was conceived by Dada Rogers an italian living in wartime London who found the combination of dark rum and Bristol Cream sherry a good substitute for the traditional but unobtainable Marsala. Others such as Polenta almond and lemon cake originate elsewhere but have been made more itaiian by the use of ingredients.
There is also a seasonal quality to our desserts. In summer we make sorbets raspberry strawberry or black currant with only lemon and sugar; in winter we make ice creams with the bitter flavour of burned caramel dark chocolate or vanilla. In summer our almond tarts are covered with uncooked fruit in winter pears are cooked under the almond filling resulting in a tart with a denser texture.
The most popular dessert at the River Cafe and one that transcends both seasons and cultures is Chocolate Nemesis.
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