Meat info recipe And Books
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Meat info recipe and books|
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river cafe cook book
In italian kitchens the oven is rarely used for cooking meat and at the River Cafe we too either pot roast our meats on top of the stove pan fry or grill them. The notable exception is the classic Bollito Misto.
Although grilling is now considered the modern healthy way to cook meat it is a very traditional Tuscan method. A first course of pasta or bread soup will ohen be Followed by grilled pork lamb or steak served somewhat austerely with a piece of lemon. Meat used For grilling must be of the best quality full of flavour and tender. Sealing first over or under an intense heat wili keep it tender and moist.
The method of slow cooking meats on top of the stove not surprisingly originates in the colder northern regions such as Piedmont. In the winter we cook such dishes as BeeF in Tegame Lo Shinco or Maiale in Latte.
Bollito Misto is one of our Favourite recipes. The meats ox tongue shin of beef cotechino sausage and a boiling hen are cooked separately in different broths with herbs and tomatoes and when the meats are carved the seasoned broth is ladled over. Lentils or cannelli beans are served with the bollito and salsa verde and mostarda di cremona are passed around the table. Wonderful ingredients straightforward and uncomplicated cooking yet subtle tastes this is the essence of Bollito Misto and of italian cooking.
We are living at a time when nearly every type of meat is the subject of vigorous debate. The main topics that dominate discussion concern whether current farming practices are cruel to animals and/or are the cause of potentially life threatening diseases to human beings. Both supermarkets and the media being particularly sensitive to public opinion reflect these trends.
Take veal for example. It is the name given to calves meat up to one year old. It should be white tender and delicate. In Mediterranean countries particularly in France it is an important part of the diet. Most housewives on the Continent have grown up on various stews and ragouts one of the most famous befog blanquette de veau. Calves offal is highly prized in fine gastronomy but is becoming bodh prohibitively expensive and politically sensitive.
Recently beef has also become controversial. The newspapers are full of tales of woe linking red meat with any number of ills in particular the human equivalent of mad cow disease CJ D. In addition red meat is supposed to aggravate aggression but this is not so in the animal kingdom where a lion is less aggressive and might even ignore you after having consumed half a zebra!
There is no doubt however that the beautiful well hung beef we used to know has long smce disappeared. Sad to say the only real flavour of old beef I experience these days is when we go to France and eat Charollais.
As far as lamb is concerned it has not escaped controversy either. The subject of young spring lambs is charged with emotion. It is certainly one of the best meats and far from declining m quality it seems to be getting better and better. It is very versatile and probably the best all rounder though very fatty.
The great fallback therefore is chicken and certainly the quality of that produced now is getting better and better. Ducks too are reared in this country with speactacular results. There are also squab pigeons from Norfolk tht taste as good as the maize fed variety from Bresse but stiil never as good as the wild green pigeons of Africa
I can also see a time when properly reared venison will become more and more popular and may even replace beef. I still marvel at how an Englishman will accept a near raw noisette of venison without demur but bring the house down if blood oozes out from a lightly cooked fillet steak.
We recommend that you fry meat in clarified butter. This will prevent little black particles from forming and sticking to the meat; they may then find their way into the gravy or sauce Never prick meat with a fork while it is cooking; some of the blood and vital juices will be lost. Roast meat should be salted halfway through cooking braised meat just before cooking and grilled meats after cooking. Leave large joints of meat such as rib of beef or leg of lamb to stand fof 30 minutes before serving covered with foil. They will be more evenly cooked the meat will be more tender and less blood will run out when you carve the joint. Raw meat is easier to work with when boning cutting and so on if it is very cold.
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